Away Fixture
Away Fixture
A weekend in Bordeaux. On Italian train companions, the Way of Life, a laptop in a café, and a river that binds the beautiful to the unforgivable.
A pilgrimage to watch a fallen giant. On Roberto Baggio, video game allegiances, and a 42,000-seat stadium that sits mostly empty.
Copenhagen is too orderly. On Vikings as nation builders, Hans Christian Anderson’s ugly duckling, and why the Danes funnel their chaos into football.
A rainy Saturday touring three Loire Valley châteaux. On mourning widows, dirty goat cheese, creepy mannequins, and why Chambord could only ever end in revolution.
On cathedrals and bones, the cosmic rerun, and a Europa League night where 19,000 atheists kept the faith.
The students leave, solo France begins. On apartment life, a 2,000-year-old wall, uncertainty, and the changing of the seasons.
On churches without parishioners, the Czech art of being miserable, and why the Soviets shelled a building that literally says "Museum" on it.